This is a pure, aesthetic wine, delicately outlined and shaped. With its citrus flavors, crisp lines and tight, taut acidity, it shows both great minerality and a sharp final focus on fruit and structure. Age this wine, and don't drink before 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.