White pepper is already signalled on the nose, on the palate it keeps fizzing amid crushed herbs and yeasty, salty tanginess. The fruit for now remains in the background, but ripe pear is ready to burst forth. This is a quintessential Grüner, full of focus and direction without forgetting the all-important charm. Lovely now but will be even better after 2018.
Reviews wines from Austria, Alsace and England
German-born but London-based, Anne Krebiehl MW is a freelance wine writer contributing to international wine publications. She also lectures, consults and translates and has helped to make wine in New Zealand, Germany and Italy. She adores acidity in wine and is thus perfectly suited to her Austria/Alsace/England beat. Her particular weaknesses are Pinot Noir, Riesling and traditional-method sparkling wines.