Yes, at 12 years this is now mature, but it still has plenty of life. Ripely in balance, this is an impressive, nutty tasting wine that has acidity that acts as a foundation for the ripe structure. It shows how well pure Chardonnay in Champagne can age—and it has more years to come.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.