Brutocao 1999 Riserva d'Argento Chardonnay (Mendocino)

From the Sanel Valley, an inland region near Ukiah that produces good, crisp, dry white wines. This one has lemony, buttery and wildflower aromas, and drinks full and rich. The fruit flavors are bright and buttery in this assertive wine, which has a good structure and is frankly delicious. —S.H.

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