With its green edge, this is not a ripe vintage wine. Certainly, the fruit is dense and sweet, but there is always the feeling of astringency, black currant juiciness that does not suggest aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.