Cadence 2004 Ciel du Cheval Vineyard Red (Red Mountain)

Here is another stellar effort from Cadence, with the control and precision that begins to show why Washington should emulate France more than California. This does not have the sheer weight and tannin of the Klipsun, but it compensates with an underlying minerality and a sinuous core of ripe but not too ripe red fruits. Complex and understated, this is a wine for fans of subtlety and elegance. Paul Gregutt

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