A golden, glowing wine, very concentrated. The burnt vanilla and dark chocolate flavors are intense. Like many 40-year olds, this has just a hint of a medicinal character, suggesting (rightly) that it should be sipped rather than drunk.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.