Calera 2003 Jensen Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan)

The '02 was one of the greatest Caleras I've ever had, and this isn't far behind. It's soft, rich and enormously appealing right now, for its fabulous array of raspberry purée, cherry jam, mocha and Asian spice flavors that are so complex and layered. The texture is so soft, it's like drinking taffeta. For all the approachability, this is a serious cellar candidate, if you can keep your hands off it over the next eight years.

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