John Jensen sources these grapes from his neighbor Ken Gimelli's vineyard just a mile away from the Calera estate in San Benito County. In this tribute to eiswein, the grapes are picked at modest sugars then frozen before processing, resulting in aromas of honey, dried apricot and a reduction sauce of honeydew, tuberose and lemonade. There's just enough acidity and grip on the liquid honey palate. It's altogether quite delicious and never cloying.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: firstname.lastname@example.org.