The wine certainly tastes rich, perhaps on the brazen side of opulence. It does have structure, though, giving shape to the pepper, spice and black plum juice flavors. Despite the tannins, this is not for aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.