Overripe fruit and sweetness yield a somewhat clumsy wine, but there are good deep flavors and tarry fruit. It would be great with hearty food, as long as you don't think about it too much. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.