A balanced wine, with dusty wood and herb aromas and firm tannins but also good, juicy fruit. At the end, there are reminders of old-style Dão in its dryness and toughness. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.