From vineyards in one of the most remote regions of the Douro, this wine speaks of rugged vineyards that give an austerity and structure to what is a dense power. The black fruits are almost impenetrable at this young stage, with firm, very dry tannins that dominate. Give it five years at least, probably 10.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.