Initially austere, with strong mineral character, this opens up to give bramble fruits, dense tannins and firm structure. The fruit does show some juicy freshness, but the tannins are the key here to a wine that needs 3–4 years aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.