Though this wine is overtly woody, the elements are very impressive. It's enticing and tasty—if unevolved—even now. Lovely black cherry, tar, coffee and sweet spice notes play on the nose and palate. But the wood expands much more than expected, progressively veiling the fine component parts. Closes long with full, solid but even tannins. This needs time and has the stuff to be a knockout if the wood recedes sufficiently. Best 2005–2012.