Made from old vines, this top wine from Cartuxa (the name means a rough, stony place) is revered in Portugal. Only nine vintages have been made since 1986, a selection of a selection. Figs, superripe black plums, dense tannins, and bitter chocolate are all here. An impressive wine; likely to age over 5–10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.