One of the iconic wines of Portugal, the brand dates back to the 15th century and the Portuguese discovery of Brazil. In its latest incarnation, it is hugely dense and concentrated. It could be that it is too much, with dark extracts, yet somehow the super-ripe plum and berry flavors are given enough freshness. The structure is all there in what is still a young wine. With power and a dense texture, the wine needs to age further. Drink from 2020.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.