With its big, fat mouthfeel, but very little fruit to back it up, at this stage this wine seems to be about wood, spice and richness without balance. The Reserva from the property seems to have a better focus.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.