For a red wine from the Vinho Verde region, this is impressive. Serious wood aging hasn't dampened the red fruits and firm tannins. The wine is dry, solid and with final acidity. It should be drunk now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.