Bitter chocolate and dried apricots vie with each other in this curious wine. It is certainly too big and rich for its own good, a blockbuster of a wine, but without the complexity that could compensate. What is here are very ripe plums, and a layer of dry, bitter tannins.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.