Surprisingly tannic, this juicy wine shows intense structure and a smoky character from wood aging. It feels as though the tannins and extract have smothered the natural fruitiness of the wine. It will need time to come round, so wait until 2017.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.