Wines from the windswept vineyards of Colares, where vines are planted almost in the sand, are rare. This Malvasia is fascinating, a wine that has perfumes, a touch of spice and kumquat as well as smoky acidity. Much more than a curiosity.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.