It's interesting to taste a wine from the unusually hot 2003 vintage after almost 14 years. It has held up well, yet shows definite signs of maturity. The toasty character typical of older Champagnes contrasts with the crisp apple fruitiness. Drink now.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.