The dull red color, the aromas of black, tarry fruits and the heavily perfumed candied flavors are all part of this old-style wine. At the end, there is leanness and dryness. —R.V.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.