You can tell this is intended as an important wine by the extravagant weight of the bottle. Put that environmental disaster to one side, and you find inside an impressive wine, crafted by Frenchman Pascal Chatonnet and Aliança's winemaker Francisco Antunes. The fruit power is balanced by wood, acidity, spice and sweet tannins. The wine rolls satisfyingly around the mouth now, but would be worth aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.