A serious, full-bodied superrich wine. It has all the ripe fruit of the 2007 vintage, almost Port-like in its concentration of blackberry fruit. There is intense structure and a dry core of tannins. The alcohol does show with a slight burn in the mouth—the only fault of the wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.