Wood aged, this is still dominated by its toast character, but shows potential in its rich black fruits and powerful tannins. Complex and ageworthy, give it at least four years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.