This collaboration between American winemakers Greg Brewer and Steve Clifton and Japanese entrepreneur Takahide Sugimoto is stunningly high-toned and buttoned-up at first, with sour cream, yogurt, crushed ant, gunmetal, flint and quinine elements on the nose. The palate is complex and fascinating, with chalk and cement minerality bolstered by lime blossom, kumquat and tonic that opens graciously with time. Drink 2016–2026.
A fifth generation Californian originally from San Jose, Matt Kettmann covers California’s Central Coast and South Coast for the magazine. He is also the senior editor of The Santa Barbara Independent, where he’s worked since 1999, has written for the New York Times, Time Magazine, Wine Spectator, and Smithsonian, and co-founded New Noise Santa Barbara, a music festival.Email: email@example.com.