Channing Daughters 2006 Tocai Friulano (The Hamptons, Long Island)

This is the only Long Island version of this white grape variety from northeastern Italy, but perhaps there should be more. Fermented in a mix of stainless steel and used wood, there's a touch of custardy richness and some dried-spice notes, but the emphasis is on clean, crisp melon, pineapple and citrus fruit. It's medium-bodied, with an appealing focus to the lingering finish that would make it an attractive pairing to many of the region's seafoods.

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