For a 2003, this is surprisingly austere. There is a dark side to the wine, very closed up still, with dry fruits and tannins dominating. It needs time to open up, as befits its exalted status of Grand Cru in the Burgundy hierarchy. There's great finishing acidity, along with red fruits.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.