It takes charm, as in luck, to find good Charmes-Chambertin. But this is one of the good ones, a big, ripe, dense wine that is just setting out on a slow road of aging. Already, though, the fruit is doing its work, showing black plum skin flavors, while the tannins hold everything together. Give it 5–10 years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.