Somewhat dusty in aromas and taste, this wine has plenty of structure. The fruit is harder to find, showing through the wood tannins and the firm, dense texture. Needs 4–5 years to develop.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.