This wine is in the dry, firm style that is a mark of Nuits-St.-Georges, yet goes beyond that with its concentrated, jammy fruit flavors balanced by dense, dry tannins. It is a good sign of the way Chanson is developing under the control of Bollinger Champagne, and becoming a négociant worth watching.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.