The smokiness that is apparent in many Chanson wines from this vintage is the dominant character in the bouquet of this big, burly wine. It has richness, a solid structure and some good, dense tannins. At the same time, the acidity reminds us of the freshness of the richest Pinot Noir.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.