This retains so much freshness, with just a hint of toast showing at the back of a wine that otherwise projects minerality, a tight structure and intense citrus acidity. It should be aged for several more years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.