There is way too much acidity here, and it's exagerrated by the wine's soft, unfocused texture. Notes of bitter toast and dark tannins are rather unbalanced.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.