91-93. Barrel sample. With great swathes of spice, this is a wine with fruit that's still emerging. It has weight and delicious intensity. With its layered structure of acidity and tannin, this is for long-term aging.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.