Quarts de Chaume, producing botrytized Chenin Blanc, should be one of the glories of the Loire. This example from Château Belle Rive, is only half there. Its rich, almost toffee character is certainly super-sweet, but it misses on the acidity, which is an essential part of the character. Too velvet for its own good.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.