While youthful tannins play an important part in this dense wine, so does the black fruit character. It's balanced, with the wood toast adding extra complexity. Ripe, while structured, it will age over several years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.