92–94. Barrel Sample. This wine is dry, with some bitterness and a hard edge of dense tannins. The acidity pierces through the wine, so fresh as to be shocking in its intensity. It will certainly need plenty of time to integrate and mellow.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.