Fine tannins, dusty and sweet, play a major part in the success of this wine. It's fruit, initially subdued by the tannins, then bursts through with cherry jelly, dark plums and an edge of licorice. It's certainly rich, but it all hangs together well.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.