96–98. Barrel Sample. A powerful, concentrated and superripe wine, this is major. The wine's juicy black-plum fruit balances its dark tannins and density. You can sense the impressive future for this structured wine.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.