one of the most northerly gravel outcrops in the Médoc, Cardonne shows some of the structure and intensity of wines from more superior appellations, but at a good price. This firm 2004 layers dry tannins in the style of Saint-Estèphe, dominating the initially austere fruit. It needs time—probably three to four years.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.