Dry botrytis dominates this wine at this stage in its development, a layer of firm concentration on top of the lychee, superripe pear and dried peaches. It is powerful, rich, very dense, needing aging for 10 years or more.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.