94–96. Barrel sample. Big and rich with lots of chocolate and ripe black-plum fruits, this is a very structured wine, showing some extraction but also spice and sweet tannins. Powerful, but with a finish that is like a cool breeze.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.