Dry, lean and structured, here is a wine that initially seems to be missing its fruit. There are hints of black cherries and plum skins, but they are always going to be surrounded by a heavy tannic presence.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.