It's appropriate that this wine is served at the Crazy Horse saloon in Paris. Made from a selection of old vines, La Horse is in the modern, polished idiom, a super-ripe wine, very concentrated, packed with blackberry jelly and bitter chocolate flavors. Give it 3–4 years, but its considerable power and intensity is already there.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.