This tastes lean, the fruit buried deep beneath hard, dry fruit tannins. There is an old style austerity here that demands food. The final juicy acidity does leave a welcome relief.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.