One of the top Graves estates has produced this fine, ripe 2012. It is still young, showing its toasty, smoky wood flavors, but has plenty of tannic structure that's firm for aging. The fruit and acidity are all there, promising a balanced wine from 2018. Hubert de Boüard (Château Angelus) is consulting enologist for the Lévèque family owners.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.