The firm texture comes from cool, underripe fruits. The cherries are given a crisp slant by the pink grapefruit and acidity that dominate. Drink now, it won't get better.
Roger Voss covers Bordeaux, Burgundy, Champagne, the Loire and South-West France as well as Portugal. His passion is matching food with wine, bringing the pleasures of the table to wine lovers. He has written six books on wine and food, and was previously national correspondent on wine for the London Daily Telegraph. He is based in the Bordeaux region.